Q: My Grandfather asked me to pose this question to you for him on the internet.
"What is the air gap bettween the flywheel and the magnet on the electronic and on the regular points on a 3.5 hp to 5 hp Briggs and Stratton engine?"
A: Hi, The air gap between the flywheel and coil is0.010 to 0.014 inch. The Points adjust to 0.020 inch.
Q: Hi Oakie-
Here's my question. I have an old 1977 10 h.p. Murry 42" rider with the 3 blades. As you might imagine, it's always a thrill either replacing this pulley or that bearing, etc.. Lately the one thing that normally works all the time (the B&S engine) kills out after a short time of driving. I have taken the gas tank off and noticed the screen was rotted @ the bottom, cleaned it and put a in-line filter along with new gas line. I removed the bottom cup and cleaned the needle, too. It almost seems like it's starved for gas when it starts to go out, because when I push the choke in it goes for a little while longer. I also have to jump start it even though I have a new battery, when it acts up. When it's cold, it starts right up. I also seem to be able to keep it running just fine in the garage...big help! I wondered if somthing like a piece of that screen got lodged in the carb., but it seems to be real smooth when it does run. What do you think?
A: I would think that the condenser has gone bad and when it gets hot it fails. That is usually what happens. Next time it quits check and see if you have any spark at the plug. If not then the condenser is a good possability.
Q: On a pull starter, what is the best way to rewind and retighten the spring and replace it in the housing? This is for a John Deere 5 HP Briggs and Stratton engine.
A: The housing has to come off the mower. Three bolts. Remove the rope from the pulley and housing. The outside clip of the spring goes into the notch in the housing. The inside clip goes into the pulley notch. When you get all this inside the pulley and be sure the spring is straight, you bend down the tags on the housing to hold the pulley in place. Wind the pulley inside the housing until it is tight. Test the spring tension by windinging the pulley a turn or two and letting go if it will go back to where it was. See if you are turning it the right way. Wind the spring until tight. Line up the rope hole in the housing with the rope hole in the pulley Lock the pulley down where it will not move, either with a tool or someone holding the spring for you. Install the rope with the handle on the outside of the housing. If the rope will not go into the housing and pulley you may want to run a small diameter wire through from the pulley end and pull the rope through. When you get the rope through tie a double knot in the end and release the pulley easily until the rope is all the way into the housing. Now pull on the rope to test your work and be sure it works right and is free operation. Re-install the cover and you are done.
Q: I have a b&s 2.5 hp engine and I need to change the points on it . Can you tell me what I need to do. Thanks for your time.
A: Hi.
You must remove the rope starter and flywheel as the points and condenser are under the flywheel. Remove the flywheel nut and then the flywheel. Pullers are available to pull the flywheel or a knocker. A knocker sets on the end of the crankshaft and you hit it with a hammer to knock the flywheel loose. Be sure not to hit the end of the crankshaft as it will flatten it and cause all kinds of problems. After flywheel removal there is a cover with 2 screws in it and the points are under it. The flywheel nut is probably part of the starter mechanism. The whole thing screws off.
Q: Hi Okie, Maybe you can help, I have a 10 year old snapper hi-vac ride on with a briggs & stratton 11 hp engine. The engine seems to be burning alot of oil and smoking. I am not a very good engine mechanic, however do you have any suggestions of what I should look for to fix this problem or what may be causing the problem. I like the snapper mower. Other than the smoke and oil burning it runs fine!
Thanks,
A: Hi I would say the rings are worn out. I'd pull the head and see if the piston is tight and if so you could get by with a set of rings and a gasket set. Also you would need to resurface the valves. Using valve grinding compound you can lap the valves in where they will seat well.
Q: Okie, I have a 3.5 hp B&S push-mower. It "died" on me today. After I get it started, it idles just fine...lots of power...sounds normal...but when I start to push, it sputters and stalls on me. Earlier, the mower would just start to idle slower than normal, but when I picked the front wheels up off the ground, the change in angle would get the idle speed back up. I checked the gas (full), changed/cleaned the air filter, checked the oil level. All is fine in those departments...what do you think the problem is? do I just need another tune-up, or does it sound more serious?
A: Hi Glad you came to my page and hope I can be of help. First I would check the governor spring to be sure its not stretched. Next I would be sure I was getting full throttle when I moved the speed control all the way open. Next I would check the blade and be sure it's sharp.If these don't help you may need a carburator tune-up or rebuild.
Q: Hello Okies,
I have two questions about an old Dynamark (model 52854100, 36", 8HP) riding mower given to me last year. 1. I can't seem to set the deck high enough to prevent scuffing my lawn. With the deck set at its highest level, mowing flat ground, it cuts the grass only an inch or two higher than the ground. I replaced the lift cable and adjusted it so tight I can barely put the deck lever into the highest notch. I don't know if I'm missing some other adjustment or what? 2. Last summer I rebuilt the carbuerator (B&S engine model 190707 with large one piece FLO-JET carb) and replaced the float. The engine ran fine until one day while mowing the lawn the engine just sputtered to a stop. Now I can only start and run the engine at a fairly high rpm or it just stalls out. Any idea's?>Because of the above problems and my frustrations at having to try to fix/adjust the mower every time I go to mow the grass I would like to get another mower. My lot (Pasadena, MD) is about an acre including the house and some bordering patches of woods. The ground is fairly flat. I'd consider purchasing a 36" walk behind but the prices start around $2200. Do you have a recommendation? Thank you for your advice.
A: Hello 1. I'll need to do some research on your deck. Sounds like maybe you are missing a pulley or something that the cable goes over. Maybe something is bent like a pulley bracket. I will check and see just how it is made and get back with you in a few days. 2. Sounds like you picked up a piece of trash in your carb. and stopped up the low speed side. I would remove the carb, tear it down and soak it in a cleaner (Simple Green works well) wash it out and blow it out. Then reassemble it and see how it does.
Q: Hi, I have a very old commercial type lawnmower(Bob Cat) with Briggs & Stratton 5 hp engine. It's been a very reliable machine since I bought it from rental shop about 18 years ago. I found out that I needed a new spark plug for the machine. Instead of going to parts store and buy replacement, I just replaced with regular used automovile spark plug and it seems like working fine. Is this acceptable practice ?
A: Hi. It will work if the base is the same thread and length as the old plug. Also it should be in the same heat range as the original plug. When you get away from Champion plugs and use other brands they are usually regular auto plugs.